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PLANTING:
The mixture I use for cuttings is 2 parts perlite or pumice, 2 parts organic compost, 2 parts leafmold, and 1 part dry steer manure. Leafmold can be difficult to obtain. Ground bark or prepared coir can be used as a substitute. If you have a local tree or shrub that can provide a good size non-oily leafmold you could be in luck. Live oak works well and the wild sumac of Southern California is really good. Don't obtain your own leafmold from distant areas as you may bring unwelcome pests with it. Mix the soil well and do not pack it, but just scoop it into the pot. I use 3 inch square pots and the rooted cutting can be kept in a pot this size for a long time. Epiphyllums seem to handle crowded root conditions quite well. Plant the cutting about 1-1/2 inch deep and let it stand 5 to 7 days before watering. After that water when the roots are still moist and approaching dry. Epis do not like to be kept wet. On the other hand the roots should never be allowed to dry out. Most problems of withered or dying branches can be traced directly to roots injured by drying out or by rotting from overwatering. As the steer manure is used up some plant food will be required. Use a 10-10-10 mixture except before blooming in the spring. Any nitrogen given to the plants at that time will cause growth and no blossoms. Hold the nitrogen until blooming is complete unless you only want growth.
The same potting mixture works just as well for older plants and the stricture about withholding nitrogen before blooming is even more important, because blooming is, after all, what you are after. Older plants usually need some training or support. Some plants are natural for hanging baskets and that is the simplest method of support where the space is available. Bamboo stakes can be used for taller plants and large tall plants are especially adaptable to a trellis. The trellis plant can be very showy. A plant that has dead roots can be saved by making cuttings and propagating new plants.

PESTS AND PROBLEMS:
The ubiquitous bad guys are Mr. Snail and Sister Slug. There are lots of remedies for them and it pays to watch for the telltale snail trails because they do a lot of damage and leave the branches looking very shabby.
Look out for the imported cabbage worm. Just one can devastate a plant overnight. Watch for a small white butterfly, that's his mama looking for a nice tender salad to lay the egg on. If you think snails are bad, wait'll you see this guy's work. There are a lot of mild sprays that work on them, but if you see damage on a branch, find that critter and do him in with your shoe heel.
Scale insects are a very unsightly problem on epis. Insecticidal soap applied to the affected plant once a week until the scale doesn't come back, works just fine for me.
Fungus can be a problem, and black spot fungus is the worst kind. Some epi varieties seem more susceptible than others do. Garden fungicides are often too harsh for epis and cause as much damage as the fungus. I have had good results with a garden fungicide in which the only active ingredient is sulfur. Apply it to afflicted plants once a week until the black spots are just scars on the branch and there are no new ones.

STRESS:
Many things can stress Epis but cold weather and excess sunlight are the most common. A branch that has been frozen is a goner, so the only thing to do is don't let it happen. A plant that has received too much sun usually has an excess of red pigment. Most plants will return to a healthy green when proper shade conditions are restored, but some will remain red. An ounce of prevention ...